West Wales has an innate natural beauty with its dramatic coastline and some of the world’s best beaches. Inland, the countryside ranges from rich farmland and wooded valleys to wild moors and ancient prehistoric landscapes. All this, as well as the ease of access from the M4, make it a great destination for an unforgettable road trip by car or bike.
As well as the wild landscape, in recent years, West Wales has become a centre for adventure sports. From surfing, sea kayaking and coasteering to mountain biking, hiking and horse riding, whatever your level of fitness there’s bound to be something new to try. However, if getting wet and muddy isn’t your thing and you want to simply relax in a country pub, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the quality of the local food and drink on offer.
Just remember, this is Wales, so whatever the time of year you choose to visit make sure you’re prepared and dressed for the changeable weather. Sun, wind and of course rain, there’s a reason why the Welsh countryside is so green. On this occasion, I opted for a merino jumper and a jacket from Malle’s adventure clothing and I can say that I was pretty comfortable all the time.
The Route
As you drive down the M4 from London, just after Swansea, the motorway changes to the A48 and then to the A40. Continue heading west until you get to St Clears, this is where you leave the ‘less interesting’ road and head towards the coast. Follow the signs to our first stop, the quiet little town of Laugharne on the south coast of Carmarthenshire.
Laugharne
The sleepy town of Laugharne with its Norman castle lies on the estuary of the River Tâf, Laugharne was the home town of the famous Welsh poet (and hellraiser), Dylan Thomas. His former house, the Boathouse, overlooks the estuary and is open to the public, his writing shed is preserved exactly as it looked back in the 1950s.
From Laugharne take the A4066 towards the village of Pendine and the famous Pendine Sands.
Pendine Sands
Pendine Sands is a 7 mile-long stretch of sand which is resurfaced by the tide twice a day. In the early 1900s, it was a popular spot for motorcycle racing and in the 1920s, the length of the beach made it perfect for many land speed record attempts.
In 1928, George Brough riding his own Brough Superior came first in a one-mile sprint and today Brough still produce a model named the Pendine Sands Racer.
Tenby
The next stop along the South Wales coast is the picturesque seaside town of Tenby. With its colourful harbour, medieval walled town centre and long sheltered beaches, it is definitely one of our favourites. As well as the pretty little town and beaches, Tenby is also home to Ironman Wales which takes place every September, it is notorious for the hilly run and bike ride.
If you’re staying in Tenby for a couple of days its worth taking a drive along the coast on the A4139 to visit the mysterious St Govan’s Chapel, Stackpole Quay, the stunning Barafundle Bay and Freshwater West, one of the best surfing beaches in Wales.
St Davids
From Tenby head towards Haverfordwest and then join the A487 past the little villages of Newgale and Solva to St Davids, Britain’s smallest city. It is also the resting place of the patron saint of Wales, St David, hence the name.
Porthgain
After St David’s take the minor Llanrhian Road to the small coastal hamlet of Porthgain where the local pub dating back to 1743 serves their speciality, freshly caught crab landed straight from the boats in the harbour. Porthgain is popular with recreational sailors and it’s hard to believe that back in the 1800s the port was a busy industrial harbour initially exporting slate and later, bricks and crushed granite.
Rejoin the A487 and follow this road through Fishguard along the west coast of Wales. As you pass Fishguard and Newport you should be able to see the ancient landscape of the Preseli Hills, this was the source of the bluestones which were used in Stonehenge, 180 miles away.
Continue on the A487 up to Aberystwyth, here you have a choice, either continue up to North Wales and the mountains of Snowdonia or turn inland towards Devil’s Bridge and some of the best driving roads in Wales. For our road trip, we are taking the Devil’s Bridge route into the heart of Wales.
Devil’s Bridge
Strictly speaking, we are now entering Mid Wales and the Cambrian Mountains. The unique Devil’s Bridge, waterfalls and gorge are definitely worth a stop before continuing on the B4574 to Rhayader. Take the signed diversion through the Elan Valley for some spectacular mounting scenery, during the summer months this road is especially popular with bikers.
Finally, it’s back on the A470 south from Rhayader over the Brecon Beacons and through the Welsh Valleys back to the capital, Cardiff.
This circular route starting from and returning to Cardiff is approximately 500 miles but you can extend or shorten your trip depending on your available time. If you just time for a long weekend, the trip along the south coast to Pembrokeshire would be perfect.
So next time you’re thinking about taking a road trip I hope you’ll give West Wales a try. Just watch out for those sheep and the Welsh road signs, if you’re wondering ‘Araf’ is Welsh for ‘Slow’.
